How To
John Paul, AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor, answers a question from a reader frustrated by yet another leaking oil pan in their Ford truck.
Q. I am at a loss after owning many Ford trucks, mini-vans, and SUV’s. My 2018 F-150 needs its plastic oil pan replaced for the third time. I called Ford and asked about a replacement metal oil pan, which they gave me the part number for and the cost ($200.00), and told me it would fit my truck. The Ford dealer said they can use the metal oil pan, but it will take 10 hours to replace it versus five hours labor to replace the plastic pan. Ford will only replace the plastic pan under warranty, and I would have to pay for the metal pan repair because I was using a different part. What is going on with Ford? Since my last repair was just under two years ago, this repair is under warranty. Do I sell my truck with 46,020 miles that I love, or just live with the oil leaking/repair problem? Someday I would like to meet the engineers who design these cars with crazy repair issues. Another example is the water pump in my Ford Explorer that requires half the engine to be disassembled.
A. Unfortunately, you are stuck. The dealer will only get paid if they replace the failed part with the same part. If it were me, I would just let the dealer repair it again. Perhaps Ford has made some improvements in the design in the last few years. Regarding vehicle design, the Ford Explorer water pump is a good example. I am not sure who thought running a water pump with the timing chain was a good idea. Other manufacturers are not immune to this kind of thinking. GM, in one model engine, buried the thermostat under the intake manifold. The end result is a $1,200 repair for something that at one time was a $100 repair. The Cadillac 4.6 liter and Northstar engines of years ago put starters under the intake manifold – not a great idea in my opinion.
Q. I have a John Deere tractor that uses a battery of 300 cold cranking amps. I want to change my battery to at least 350 CCA. I heard it is better for starting and holding a charge. Would it be worth it to up my CCA? Love your column and enjoy reading all the questions.
A. Batteries are rated by cold cranking amperage (CCA) and reserve capacity. Higher CCA is always good because it will provide stronger cranking. Holding a charge is based on reserve capacity, which is measured in amp hours. The higher the reserve capacity the more likely the engine will crank over when left unused. When replacing your battery look for improvements in both cold cranking amperage and reserve capacity.
Q. I read your column all the time and recently moved, and I was wondering how to find a new reliable VW mechanic. I have a 2010 VW New Beetle convertible (Final Edition) and whenever I need to take it in for repairs or maintenance, I take it to the local VW dealer, but it is so expensive. I just do not know anyone else to trust to take it to. I’d really appreciate your advice.
A. Finding a good repair shop can be as difficult as finding a good doctor. I would start asking friends and neighbors who they use. Check with neighborhood Facebook pages for local recommendations. AAA has approved repair shops that offer two-year, 24,000-mile warranty, labor discounts, as well as other benefits including arbitration. Go to aaa.com/repair to find a shop near you. These Volkswagens, depending on the engine, can be a struggle to work on. In many cases the front bumper cover and fenders need to come off to do some repairs. Finding someone with VW experience is the first place to start.
Q. I recently found a very clean 1995 Honda Prelude. The issue is the engine is actually missing. I love this body style and was thinking of adding a V-6 engine from a Honda Pilot. What do you think?
A. This type of engine swap is possible, but quite complex. Keep in mind the suspension, cooling system, and brakes were never designed to handle that weight or horsepower. That being said, if you have the time, talent, and budget, it can be accomplished.
Q. I use synthetic oil in my car and truck. What is the mileage for synthetic oil changes? I heard and read 10,000 miles. I was at a parts store recently and some oil even states 25,000 miles. What do you recommend?
A. It depends on the car. I would never recommend exceeding the manufacturer’s specification. Even though the oil may state it is good for 10,000 or 15,000 miles I would not exceed what the manufacturer recommends, especially if the drivetrain is under warranty. The only exception to extended oil changes would be if you have the oil analyzed by a lab and replaced the oil filter. On a normal engine that uses five to eight quarts of oil, to me it seems more cost effective to just change the oil at the normal recommendation, rather than spend the money on oil analysis.
John Paul is AAA Northeast’s Car Doctor. He has over 40 years of experience in the automotive business and is an ASE-certified master technician. E-mail your Car Doctor question to [email protected]. Listen to the Car Doctor podcast at johnfpaul.podbean.com.
Sign up for the Today newsletter
Get everything you need to know to start your day, delivered right to your inbox every morning.
